To the Arans and Beyond

Castletownbere has been good to us...as have its nautical natives. The morning after our 'evening of shame' saw all and sundry leap to our attention. Mide and Adam had been on the blower early and their friend Fiona (RNLI Organiser for County Cork) had emailed the Castletown station to ensure we were 'looked after' while another friend , Ian, who hails from these parts was assisting (from a tanker in the Caribbean) in our finding a quality diesel engineer to make good our fuel system. Ian's mammy even arrived on the Quay to ensure we had all we needed for our stay and to advise us of the best bars for the 'craic'!

A short sojourn to the Harbour Master's office was an equally pleasant encounter with reassurance of our secure berth at a rate that 'wouldn't break the bank', good news indeed for our quartermaster whose hold on the purse strings has brought on early rheumatic symptoms!

A wander around the town and a few phone calls later saw us lounging on deck awaiting developments. Neil at this point set off to replenish our drinking water and returned with a  weatherbeaten and lively kiwi, Phil, from the wooden ketch anchored off the Quay.  The whisky was uncorked and we were entertained with tales of high adventure. Phil and his wife Linda, have been at sea for over a quarter of a century they have reared and educated a family of three on board.  The kids are now back in New Zealand raising their own families as the pair wander on with their second circumnavigation of this globe we live on. Phil's tales of traveling the world could be summarised as ' Patagonia is beautiful, safe and friendly...but the Caribbean is a "shit hole" ...clearly a man schooled in the oratorical finesses of the Southern Hemisphere ! 

The Skipper called the engineer to be informed work would commence at 8.30am. Phil was waved a fond farewell with promises of a pint in Mc Carthy's next evening and we took to our bunks once more. 

Ger O'Shea and his mate Donagh we're on board at the allotted time and our diagnosis confirmed. They set about the mammoth task of draining the tank, flushing the hoses and changing the filters which they did with great thoroughness and had the engine purring again within three hours.Then they drove us to replenish our fuel cans, made a detour to order spare filters and charged us €100 for the lot. The fresh filters they brought were worth €40 so it was embarrassingly reasonable but indicative of the generosity of the good people of the Beara Peninsula. Thanks lads you were stars!

While our engine was sound once more, but yet to be tested, the weather was closing in. Mark took the opportunity to give the decks a good scrubbing before lunch. Goose was sparkling once more. As we were below deck munching on sea biscuits and salt pork we were hailed from outside. Words to the effect of 'hey ye feckers!' made the identity of our piratical pest obvious. Phil had rowed over with reports of who knows what?...but after a pleasant interlude he was off again to explore the harbour.  

Our meal that evening was a culinary treat indeed. Neil, ever careful to save on expenditure had gone fishing. His bountiful catch was cooked to perfection and we were then in need of a proper meal which Mark provided...delicious!!

Mark was weary from a busy day so passed on our rendezvous in Mc Carthy's. Neil and the Skipper headed for the bright lights for a few pints and a pleasant hour or two with Phil and Linda (a mellow and tolerant soul with roots in Galway) and another couple  Claire and Barry who had just finished this years effort in a two season kayak circumnavigation. Claire is from Portavogie and Barry is a scouse and we swapped tales a plenty, including reports of Claire's childhood trips to Kevin Ogs for ice cream...the legend lives on!!!

Preparations are afoot for a festival in town and we may have to anchor off the Quay as all the local boats come home for the festivities...still it's almost time to cast adrift from Castletown where the women are handsome and the men engineering Nureyev's!

The two diesel engineers traversing fishing boat to get to Goose

Phil, Linda, Claire and Barry. (D asked me to put up this photo which I, Neil, took. I object to it as while the two boys are looking at me, both the girls are obviously under Diarmuid's spell and paying me no attention whatsoever. )